
Hey folks, I just got back from Egypt last Tuesday. Hell, this was the most interesting trip I ever made! I traveled the whole country by bus, by cab and even by ship and have seen everything from Hurghada to Luxor to Aswan and Cairo.
After arriving at Hurghada airport, I stayed at the Palm Beach Resort for a night and got transferred through the desert by bus to Luxor the next morning where I checked-in to one of the Nile cruisers, in fact the Nile Crown III. The ship left the next morning so I decided to take a coach ride with some other travelers I met at the ship.
The ship passed the Lock of Esna, where some sellers on their little boats threw clothes and other stuff on our deck for sale. I ‘accidently’ threw it back into the Nile
…
Right after lunch we arrived in Edfu, where we visited the Temple of Edfu – It’s one of the biggest and best preserved Temples in Egypt.
The ship left Edfu the same day and headed towards Kom Ombo, while we passengers spent the evening at a Carabea dance night.
We arrived in Kom Ombo at around midnight, right in front of the Temple. So I decided to walk around the well lit temple a bit. You couldn’t leave the secured harbor, but nevertheless I got an impression of the locals. (I got way deeper knowledge of the Egyptians in Aswan and Luxor, but more about that later on…)
The next morning I visited Kom Ombo as part of the sightseeing package I stupidly ordered.
After we got back, the ship left Kom Ombo heading directly towards Aswan, where we already arrived at 3pm of day 4 of my 14-Day trip. The ship anchored in front of a tomb group which we decided to hike on our own later in the evening, after we got back from the sightseeing tour through Aswan. We visited the unfinished obelisk, drove across the Old Dam and visited the new High Dam which dams up the Lake Nasser reservoir.
To get to the tomb group we hired a Feluke which brought us directly to the riverside at the foot of the tomb group. The armed guards in front of a fence wanted a huge amount of backschisch (Arab for tip) to let us hike the mountain, because it was already getting dark and they needed to ‘turn the lights on’. We understood what they meant when we were back at our ship. But it was definitely worth the extra money (about 15€ per person), the guard, which now became our tour guide, unlocked tombs which are actually not open to the public.
On the next day (Day 6), I made a boat trip to a traditional Nubian Village. This trip was so worth the money, I actually wanted to do it again
. Although the village became more tourism oriented during the last 5 years (according to a friend which has been to Egypt several times), it was great. We stopped at a camel flock and took a bath in the Nile behind Aswan.
Our ship left Aswan the same night, heading back towards Luxor at full speed and arrived there after an 8h stop at the Lock of Esna at around lunch.
I didn’t want to stay at the ship for the rest of the day, so I and a few other people took a cab to the Bazaar of Luxor. I’ve already been to the Bazaar in Aswan two times, but the Bazaar I visited in Luxor was definitely not tourism oriented. Everyone looked at us
It was a great experience. At least until we reached the end of the Bazaar! We didn’t want to walk back through the Bazaar so we decided to walk around it, which really was a bad Idea. I think we walked through a radicals neighborhood or so, because we got surrounded and have been called names. Luckily a taxi driver came along and helped us. I directly went to bed, because we had to get up very early…
… the next day to visit the Valley of the Kings, the Hatshepsut Temple and the Memnon Colissi. We were back at the ship for lunch and spent the rest of the day on deck, while enjoying the sun.
On the 9th day we again drove through the Egyptian desert, back to our Hotel in Hurghada.
Without even having unpacked our baggage, we already took a public bus for just 70 L.E. (which is less than 10€), to go to Cairo at 8am on day 10. It really was a public bus. We were the only 4 tourists at the bus and we had to listen to the prayers at the radio for almost two hours. Not that it got silent afterwards. No, then they turned on the TV and we had to watch Arab comedy for the other five hours of our seven hour journey to Cairo. We sadly arrived two hours delayed at 5pm, rented a taxi for the whole day and hurried to the Egyptian museum, where we stayed for about 45min. To our bad it wasn’t the Egyptian museum that closes at 6pm, but the Pyramids! So when we arrived there at about 6:30pm, the guards won’t let us in anymore. Backschisch didn’t help either 
So we decided to get dinner at the KFC right in front of the Pyramids and watched the Pyramids Light Show from the terrace of a restaurant.
Our bus back to Hurghada left at 11:30pm. I couldn’t even get a minute of sleep, because the Arab people are very night active. We had to watch even more Arab comedy…
… and arrived at our Hotel at 7am. I spent the day asleep at the beach.
Which was pretty much all I did the next three days: Staying at the beach and relaxing.
I went to the Bazaar in Hurghada, but Hurghada is, as soon as you leave the tourism areas, a very ugly and dirty city. Left construction sites everywhere… The Bazaar is also very small.
On day 13 we joined a snorkeling trip to the Giftun island. That was a nice finish.
On day 14 we had to check-out at 12am, but were only transferred to the airport at 4:30pm. So we spent the rest of the day at and in the pool.
When arrived at the airport, some security jerk won’t let me enter the airport building. I stupidly showed him my tickets, whereas everyone else just showed there IDs. My Check-In desk wasn’t open so I should wait outside… I asked a bunch of Englishman, that also had to wait outside and it turned out that they were already waiting for two hours! So I wanted to talk to that security guy again, but his English was really bad so he just shaked his balls and played around with his gun. To my luck his so called ‘Big Boss’ came along and after a long discussion I could enter the airport and go through the first security check to the check-in.
Take some time to watch the pictures with a small explanation or watch the Flickr Set or Slideshow with even more pictures. I’ll share some tips I got to know about saving money and dealing with the locals Egypt below.
If you think you are able to negotiate with the Egyptians, don’t order any of the sightseeing packages or tours your Travel agency offers! You can get everything way cheaper by simply leaving the ship or talking to a taxi driver. I got the coach ride for 5€ total whereas my travel agency wanted 20€ per person! I paid 40€ to my travel agency for a guided tour to Kom Ombo, which was just a 3min walk from the ship to the temple with a rather boring 30min informational speech.
If you want to go to Cairo for a day, don’t book at your travel agency for more than 80€ where you don’t see much. Instead, get a taxi to El Gouna and take a public bus for just 15€ total. You should catch an early bus, like 6am or 7am. When you arrive in Cairo take a taxi and ask him to be your driver for the whole day. We paid just 20€ for a sightseeing tour from the Bus station to the Egyptian museum to Giza and to the skyline which took more than 6 hours. Your taxi driver will wait for you wherever you leave and watch sights. Some thieves might tell you that you need to get a Camel to visit the Pyramids. You don’t! The Pyramids are very close to a neighborhood. You can see them from a small KFC and you have a great view from the terrace of a small restaurant just a few meters to the right of KFC. They are about 100m away.
I visited almost all the historic sights in Egypt, but I got bored pretty soon (well, the travel agency’s tour guide wasn’t the best one). If I’ would do it again, I would visit the Valley of the Kings, the Hatshepsut Temple, the Temple of Edfu, the Tomb Group in Aswan, Abu Simbel and of course Cairo and the Pyramids of Giza. I wouldn’t visit Kom Ombo (it’s great to see at night from the outside, though) nor would I visit the Luxor Temple (well I would maaaybe visit Karnak Temple again).
Also, if you organize the tours on your own, you can get around all these papyrus/perfume/whatever ‘museums’, which are just shops…
If you are at a Bazaar and someone tells you it’s free: It’s not! I got a cloth for free, the seller just gave me his business card and invited me into his shop when I would get out the Temple of Edfu. I didn’t visit his shop, so he followed me, jumped into our bus and forced me to give him the cloth back… so be prepared. They are almost all crooks.
If you keep all this in mind, you will get a great impression of Egypt.
P.S. if you want to take pictures in Egypt, I’d bring a wide-angle and a fast prime like a 50 f/1.8 or a 35 f/1.8 and maybe a good tele (I used the tele for about 50 times, but I would have liked to have something faster than my 70-300 VR)
Welcome Back dude!
I myself just got back from Rome
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Great pics! I’m here in Egypt now. My trip is almost identical to yours. Cairo (Giza, Saqqara, museum, Citadel Mosqe, etc) Aswan (Abu Simbel, Philae), then a cruise up the Nile checking Kom Obo and Edfu on the way… then arriving in Luxor. Valley of the Kings, Queens, Hatshepsut, Karnak, then over to Horghada for a day of snorkeling.
Then back to Cairo and I fly from here to your home country. Flying into Berlin, excited to see Germany as I’ve never been and never been to Europe at all.
Sadly my Nikon D80 is acting up though, after putting a freshly charged batter in, after just a couple hundred shots its drained completely. Doesnt even show a low battery indicator or anything. LCD is completely dead. I usually get about 5 days on a single charge, and when the batter is low it flashes etc. I am reading that this could be an internal power supply problem on the D80… which would be very unfortunate timing! :-/ Here’s to hoping i’ll make it through ok…
Hi Jason,
I’ve had similar issues with my D90… battery empty after just a couple of hours. But at least my LCD showed it. I worked around it by using a battery grip with AA Batteries.
Great to hear you’re visiting Germany, but don’t expect too much from Berlin. It’s a historical city, but it’s also pretty dirty. :/
Have a great time in Egypt! I am thinking about coming back to Egypt this year
Chris
Hurghada is the pearl of the Red Sea. If you have an option on where to go when in Egypt, then you should choose Hurghada or its babysister El Gouna.